Installing Your Hoist
Most of our customers do this themselves. Here's what's actually involved.
"Erecting was an afternoon exercise with my brother and a mate. We used all thread and chemset to anchor, filled the hydraulic reservoir, and after curing the anchors 24 hrs she's ready for operation. Best price for a quality hoist, runs perfectly."
Simon Sellick, Google review
Read the manual first. Where we hold the installation manual for a model it is downloadable from that product's page, before you buy. Have a look at what's involved before you commit, not after the truck arrives.
Before delivery day
- Confirm it fits. Ceiling, floor, slab.
- Book your electrician. The power unit needs to be hardwired by a licensed electrician. Line them up before the hoist lands.
- Plan how you'll move it. It arrives palletised and heavy. Getting it into position is on you.
- Get your hydraulic fluid. Check the specified grade in your model's manual — our hoists generally take ISO 46. It is not supplied.
What's in the box
Columns, overhead beam or floor plate, carriages, arms, cables and lines, power unit, anchor bolts, fixings, and the installation manual.
Not included: hydraulic fluid, and the electrical connection of the power unit.
The job itself
Follow the manual — this is an overview, not a substitute for it.
- Mark out. Position and square the columns to the manual's dimensions. Measure twice. Once the anchors are in, you're committed.
- Drill and anchor. Drill to the specified depth and diameter. Blow the holes out properly — anchor performance depends on a clean hole. Chemical anchors (chemset) are common; some installs use the supplied mechanical anchors.
- Let the anchors cure. If you've used chemical anchors, give them the full cure time before putting any load on — usually around 24 hours. Don't rush this.
- Assemble. Fit the overhead beam or floor plate, carriages, cables and arms. Route the hydraulic lines.
- Electrical. A licensed electrician hardwires the power unit.
- Fill and bleed. Add hydraulic fluid to the grade your manual specifies, then cycle the hoist to bleed air out of the system.
- Level and set. Run it up and down empty. Check the carriages rise level and adjust the balancing cables until they do. Check the safety locks engage in both columns.
- First lift. Start with something light. Check lock engagement at height, check for leaks, check it holds.
Time and people
Two post: an afternoon for two people, plus anchor cure time overnight.
Four post: often quicker — no anchoring required on level ground.
Scissor: the fastest. Some customers have theirs running in under an hour.
You'll want a rotary hammer drill, spanners and sockets, a spirit level, a tape and a second set of hands. An engine crane or a tractor makes lifting the columns and beam much easier.
"Awesome four post hoist with Hi-lift for two vehicles. After sales assistance was exemplary. Easy to install though a tractor did help."
Carl Noone
Being straight with you
It's not hard, but it's not nothing either. One customer put it well:
"The only problem that I can see is if the purchaser is not up to speed with the fitting they would find it quite a task."
If you're comfortable with tools, a level and a drill, you'll be fine. If you're not, get an installer in — it's not expensive relative to the hoist, and it's done properly the first time.
Stuck halfway through?
Ring us. We've talked plenty of people through an install over the phone, and we'd much rather do that than have you guess.
"Very good service, solved a couple of problems over the phone, awesome to talk to."
Colin Reid
After it's up
- Keep the manual — you'll want it for parts numbers
- Check the lock engagement and cable tension periodically
- Commercial use: hoists in a workplace need periodic inspection and maintenance under WHS regulations. The relevant standard is AS 2550.9, Vehicle hoists — Safe use, which covers operator pre-start checks, routine servicing and annual inspection by a competent person
- Never install outdoors. Our hoists are built for indoor use